Kampong Glam & Little India

Friday 1st May 2009

Feeling refreshed and revitalised from our mini break in Indonesia, we decided to explore some more and later on Friday we headed out to the area of Singapore known as Kampong Glam and Little India.

Kampong Glam is derived from the words "Kampong" (village), and "Glam" (a type of tree), that once grew in the area.

Arab traders were among the early settlers here creating a muslim enclave. Buildings are predominantly Art-Deco-style shophouses and grander colonial architecture with a middle eastern feel.

Little India is an attractive blend of interesting sights, spicy scents and heady sounds. Even more so during our Friday afternoon visit as the locals were going to worship and their prayer songs and sounds of the calls to prayer added to the ambiance and atmosphere around us.
Little India is the spiritual heart and the commercial centre of the local Indian community.

There are numerous restaurants, large and small, traditional shophouses and ornate temples. Crowds flock here, especially at weekends, to worship, eat and socialise.

We began our tour of the area in Arab Street - which has rows of shops selling cane, rattan and straw products, it is also famous for its textile stores, bales of colourful cloth overflow on to the pavement and cram the store fronts - fabrics such as cotton, chiffon, organza and silk can easily be purchased here. Arab Street is also renowned for its batik from Indonesia and Malaysia, typically sold in sarong lengths.

The majestic Sultan mosque also looms strikingly in the neighbourhood. Calls to prayer from the minaret were clearly heard during our visit and locals flocked in to the mosque with women and children sitting, shoeless on mats outside in the courtyard.

We watched respectfully, as the men used the Ablution areas where they washed their hands and feet before entering the mosque to worship.

Opposite the mosque is Bussorah Mall which is a paved street and which has lots of stalls selling foodstuffs and religious items.

From Arab Street we walked towards the vicinity of Serangoon Road. We passed an open air market with all the items strewn, haphazardly across the ground, reminding us somewhat of a car boot sale back home!! We cut through a side street which was heaving with people - all men and all Indian - we were the only Westerners and the only females and as such a tad conspicuous.

All around there was a pleasant hustle and bustle, and the scents from joss sticks and culinary smells filled the balmy evening air.

The early Indian migrants to Singapore in the 19th century settled along the banks of the Rochore canal - the area eventually became a cattle breeding and trading centre and this is reflected in the name of some of the streets in the area; Buffalo Road and Kerbaw(buffalo) Road.
With more Indian arrivals in Singapore, Serangoon Road became Little India.

Serangoon Road, the heart of Little India is one of the oldest roads in Singapore. The cafes and restaurants were packed with mainly male Indians who were using their fingers to eat from banana leaves that serve as plates.

Also on the Serangoon Road is the Sri Veeramakaliamman Temple, which is a temple in honour of the Hindu goddess Kali.

We had read that the more famous Indian restaurant, The Komala Vilas Restaurant specialising in South and North Indian vegetarian cuisine (www.komalavilas.com.sg) was worth a visit so we went in search of it and found it located further along the Serangoon Road. It was very busy!

The menu was varied and there was lots of choice - we decided to go with our waiters recommendations and had simply one of the best Indian meals yet!
We had Masala Dhosai which is pieces of paper-thin Indian bread filled with potato and peas (a bit like an English pasty!), and a selection of dips. We also had the Ghee Butter Masala with paneer and Kashmiri naan - very tasty and very cheap! Many of the other customers were eating with their hands as is the tradition, and there were sinks and taps available for hand washing pre and post meal - we were treated to the luxury of a fork and spoon!! The staff were friendly and accommodating. It was a fantastic experience and we felt well and truly immersed in the local Indian culture.